
I Tried At-Home Microneedling With The Help Of An Aesthetician
Is this popular in-office procedure safe and effective to DIY? Itâs complicated.
I identify as a bougie girl on a budget. I love nice clothes, high-tech beauty devices, and classic jewelry â but as an editor who is also a full-time grad student, I donât have a lot of extra money to spare. Iâm always looking for hacks to help me treat myself for less money, and TikTok tends to come through in the DIY category.
Since I frequently scour the app for self-care and beauty hacks, it was only a matter of time before I came across at-home microneedling tutorials. This procedure, which is normally done at a dermatologistâs office, involves the use of tiny needles to create micro-injuries in the skin, stimulating the production of collagen. Itâs often used to improve skin texture and brightness over time. Microneedling is well-studied and approved by the American Academy of Dermatology, but it comes at a price â a single session often costs $300 or more at a dermatologist or med spa, and itâs recommended you do it consistently to see results over time.
Iâve long wanted to start a microneedling routine, but itâs been cost-prohibitive, so I was very excited to learn that itâs possible to do this yourself. That said, itâs extremely important to do your research, watch plenty of tutorials, and donât skimp on safety precautions to avoid damaging your skin. Below, I give it a try with the help of Jayme Bykowski, aka @skinwithjayme on TikTok, an aesthetician who teaches people how to do office procedures at home.
Fast Facts:
- Price: $350-500 upfront cost for supplies.
- Who this is best for: Detail-oriented beauty lovers who donât have active skin concerns like acne, rosacea, or eczema.
- What I like: Being able to microneedle at home has made the treatment accessible for me, and the process is pretty straightforward with practice.
- What I donât like: The upfront cost is steep, and thereâs a major learning curve that can be intimidating at first. This is not for someone who wants a simple, easy beauty hack â you need to be committed to following the steps closely and keeping safety and cleanliness top of mind.
- Rating: 4/5.
The Pros & Cons Of Microneedling At Home
If you Google âat-home microneedlingâ â or ask your aesthetician friends about it â youâll find a wide variety of strong opinions about whether itâs safe to do this at home. The American Academy of Dermatology says the DIY option is âriskyâ because it can cause scarring or spread infection if you donât know what youâre doing. After all, youâre creating controlled injuries all over your face.
âYou can absolutely damage your skin if itâs done incorrectly,â Bykowski says, âbut that reason right there is why I'm so passionate about providing this education.â At-home microneedling devices are available for anyone to buy, which is what prompted her to start teaching her 236,000 followers how to safely use them. âThe DIY people are going to do what they're going to do, and I'd rather people do it correctly. I just want to help out.â
Who shouldnât microneedle at home? âIf you've got anything inflammatory going on â if you're dealing with inflamed rosacea or acne, you really need to get that settled and under control before you consider microneedling,â Bykowski says. You do not want to microneedle over any kind of active infection. Consult your dermatologist if youâre concerned about whether the treatment is the right thing for you.
The Supplies:
After spending copious amounts of time watching Bykowskiâs TikTok tutorials, I started ordering all the supplies Iâd need to get started. The most popular microneedling devices are by a brand called Dr. Pen, and there are plenty to choose from â the M8 and A11 are two well-liked options.
Youâll also want to order a pack of single-use needle cartridges that attach to the device. They come in a variety of needle counts representing the intensity of the treatment, and the numbering system is counterintuitive. âThe 9- and 12-pin cartridges are going to be a lot more aggressive than the 36- and 42-pin cartridges,â Bykowski says. She typically uses a 36-pin cartridge, alternating with the 12-pin every three to four treatments.
Once youâve ordered your device and cartridges, itâs time for serums. You donât want to use any old product for this â you need something that is specifically formulated for microneedling and comes in a single-use, sterile container. Bykowski buys her serums from AceCosm.com, a major supplier of Korean skin care products. She has a video listing her favorite serums, and I went with two of her top picks: Curenex Rejuvenating Solution and Hyaron, which she recommends mixing together.
Now youâve sourced all the specialized supplies youâll need, but youâre not done â next is making sure you have all the basic items to make the process safe and sterile. Bykowski recommends disposable gloves, a bottle of 70% isopropyl alcohol, cotton rounds, a fresh makeup brush, and 5% lidocaine if you plan on numbing your skin. Youâll also need a small bowl to mix your serums in. These supplies will last you for at least 10-15 sessions, which is over a yearâs worth of treatments.
First Impressions:
I could not have been more grateful to have Bykowskiâs videos to help me purchase all the right supplies and prepare correctly. Going into this process, I figured I would need to do my research, but I wasnât prepared for just how much Iâd need to buy, and I didnât want to skimp on anything. Armed with my full product collection, I chose a morning when I knew Iâd be home all day to let my skin rest, and got everything together to start microneedling.
The Process:
Bykowski recommends doing this in the evening to let your skin recover overnight, and make sure you have a fresh pillowcase to keep your skin clean for the first 12 hours after treatment. (I opted to do it in the morning so I could let my skin breathe for the full day, but I made sure I wasnât going outside since Iâd have to go without sunscreen.)
Start by washing your hands and getting things ready. Lay a clean towel down on the counter, and use a gentle cleanser to remove any makeup or debris. Pull your hair back and out of your face so it doesnât come into contact with the treatment area.
Next, put on your gloves and apply numbing cream if you want to use it. The lower the needle count in your cartridge, the more likely youâll want to numb â I found I didnât need the lidocaine for the 36-pin cartridge. Throw away those gloves and wait 20 minutes for the numbing cream to set in, then double-cleanse your face with a gentle cleanser and dry with a clean towel. Bykowski recommends a fresh pair of gloves at this point to be extra careful.
Next, youâll disinfect everything â even down to the makeup brush and the bowl. Pour the serum into the bowl, then attach the cartridge to the pen.
Take the brush and apply the serum to the area youâll treat first. âI recommend starting with your forehead, then moving to the nose, upper lip, chin, marionette area, and finishing with the cheeks, then moving on down to the neck and chest if you're including those areas as well,â Bykowski says. Set the Dr. Pen device to the depth and speed you want. I stuck with 0.25 mm, the lowest possible depth, to be extremely conservative since Iâm still a beginner. I alternated between speeds 2 and 3.
Hold the pen perpendicular to your skin, making sure not to press in and push the needles deeper than intended. Bykowski does three passes of each area â first in a vertical motion, then horizontal, then tiny circles. âMake sure you're adding adequate glide as you're going, because if anything's pulling or tugging, that's a key that you should probably add more serum,â she says. You may notice some redness and possibly some tiny pinpoint bleeding, in which case itâs time to move on to the next area.
Leave your skin alone once youâve finished the treatment. âYou can apply the rest of the serum if you want,â Bykowski says, but wait overnight or the full day before putting any other product on your face. âIt takes 12 hours for the channels that you've created to completely close up, so at the very least, wait 12 hours until you do some gentle skin care,â she says. Youâll also want to avoid active ingredients for the next several days while your skin continues to heal.
My skin directly after microneedling.
The Results:
Once I ripped off the Band-Aid and actually did the treatment (rather than continuing to put it off by watching 800 tutorials to be over-prepared), I found it to be pretty straightforward. I stayed cautious, using a high-needle cartridge and low depth, and the process wasnât painful at all. It felt like a very light poking sensation on my skin, but nothing compared to the feeling of plucking my eyebrows or waxing my upper lip. My skin was a tiny bit red afterward, but wasnât alarming.
I kept my hair pulled back all day and just did a gentle cleanse and moisturizing in the evening, then slept on a clean pillowcase. My next-day skin was still a little dry from the alcohol, with a bit of residual redness, but mostly back to its normal tone and texture. Within two days, the redness was totally gone. I wonât get to see the full glowy effect for a few more weeks, but in the meantime, Iâve noticed my skin soaking in moisturizer more readily.
My skin the morning after microneedling.
According to Bykowski, you want to wait at least one month before repeating this. âThe healing process is the most important part of microneedling, and that's when the collagen is being built up,â she says. Your skin may look fresh after a day or two, but âjust because you can't see the healing doesn't mean it's not happening.â Repeating the treatment risks damaging the skin before itâs fully recovered.
Is At-Home Microneedling Worth It?
Yes â with a lot of caveats. This process is not for beauty beginners or girlies who want to keep their skin care routine low-maintenance. Bykowski made it clear to me that safety is paramount, so if youâre not willing to be extremely cautious about sanitizing your materials and keeping your skin clean, itâs probably best to steer clear.
âCleanliness is key, and technique is everything,â Bykowski says. âTake your time and don't rush through it.â Going really light on my needle depth, with the less intense cartridge, made me feel more comfortable as Iâm getting used to this complex process. Iâll also never do it if my skin is irritated, so if youâre acne-prone or struggle with redness and inflammation, this isnât the treatment for you.
Now that I have everything I need to microneedle again, Iâm planning to repeat this in six weeks and get into a groove of doing it regularly. I hope that Iâll get more efficient as time goes on and be able to up my intensity over time. Iâm excited to have one less reason to overspend at the med spa â but Iâm also proceeding with caution since Iâm not a trained pro.
About Me:
As Elite Dailyâs contributing editor, Iâm always trying new things for the sake of the story. Iâve experimented with plenty of beauty devices that claim to boost skin radiance and contour the face, like red light therapy and microcurrent. Iâm typically pretty low-maintenance, but happy to commit to a complex routine if I like the effects (but youâll only catch me doing it every few weeks when I have a chill bed rot day planned).